Wine Spectator heeft vorige week een barrel tasting gedaan van de Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 wijnen uit Napa, Californie.
Resultaat: 2005 was een erg goed jaar voor Napa. Maar niet zo goed al veel wijnboeren willen doen geloven. Met veel 90-95 wijnen en een paar 95-100 wijnen is het een goed jaar, maar niet sensationeel. Nog steeds een goed jaar met rijp fuit, goede balans en elegantie.
De toppers waren BRYANT FAMILY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005, HUNDRED ACRE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley The ARK Vineyard 2005 en PAHLMEYER Napa Valley 2005. Alle drie 95-100 punten.
Bron: www.winespectator.com
2005 California Cabernet Barrel Tasting
A preview of the vintage finds elegant and balanced wines, but there are some weak links
If 2005 is to end up being a sensational year for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, as so many producers insist it will, the wines will have to make a stronger impression than they did in my preliminary blind tasting in Napa this week.
Most of the 50-plus barrel samples were indeed tasty enough for me to give them projected rankings in the outstanding range, or 90 to 94 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale. The trio of Bryant Family Vineyard, Hundred Acre The Ark Vineyard and Pahlmeyer were extraordinary and stood out from the rest; I think these wines have the potential to score classic, or at least 95 points. Another handful of wines—Gemstone, Paul Hobbs, Lewis, Cliff Lede, Snowden and Tor—were close in quality, bordering on 95-plus scores, and could move into the classic range when released. (A half a dozen samples appeared to be spoiled, and so were not reviewed.)
Overall, my tasting can be viewed as good news for California Cabernet drinkers. As a group, the wines show bright, ripe, vivid Cabernet fruit flavors, excellent balance and a sense of elegance and grace. The tannins are ripe, balanced and integrated.
But as a whole, the 2005 Cabernets are notably different than wines made in years such as 2004, 2002 and 2001. The 2005s do not show as much depth, plushness, concentration or range of flavor as past vintages have displayed at a similar stage of development. This may be both a function of the vintage and the result of a deliberate attempt by winemakers to ease off on superripe wine and soaring alcohol levels.
So for me, for now, 2005 appears to be an outstanding vintage that will have plenty of time to prove itself. But I’m not convinced at this time that it is a watershed year or that it will be appreciably better than 2002 or 2004.
If there is a weak link in the quality of 2005, it may be that huge yields led to some less-concentrated wines. Many winemakers have noted this; many also compare the crop size to that of 1997, another giant harvest (but a vintage I rated at 99 points).
At the same time, though, the large crop should provide winemakers with ample choices for their top cuvées and help them build inventories. And there are cellar techniques that can help concentrate the wines, including machines such as the spinning cone and reverse osmosis equipment that can remove excess liquid.
Winemakers’ views of the growing season and crop size are varied, depending on where their vineyards are located. Some say 2005 was challenging—with an early budbreak, damp spring, cool summer and late harvest. On top of that, the crop, due to very large berries, was so heavy that it took repeated efforts to thin it and reduce the yields. Others say 2005 brought an even growing season, a normal-size crop and an easy harvest.
While Dennis Groth of Groth Vineyards in Oakville calls 2005 a "killer year" and produced his first reserve since 1999, Chuck Wagner, owner and winemaker at Caymus Vineyards in Rutherford, says some of his top vineyards underperformed in 2005. He says he has sold nearly 40 percent of his wine on the bulk market—an unusually large amount.
"I think 2005 is a really great vintage," Wagner says, but added that some of his "old faithful" vineyards suffered from overcropping and that some vines ran out of gas due to the length of the growing season. Moreover, he says, some vineyards in the valley fell victim to mites, which feed on the vines and in turn affect the quality of the grapes.
Tor Kenward of Kenward Family Vineyards, which produces wine under the Tor label, says that the 2005 Cabernets also had lower sugar levels at harvest and therefore lower alcohol levels. It "may be more of a Bordeaux vintage than we have seen [in Napa] in a while," he says.
My tasting notes, which follow, include a score range indicating how I expect the wines, based on the barrel samples I tried, to rate as finished products. However, most of these wines won’t reach the market for another two years, and that will be a much better time to evaluate them.
Wine Score
BRYANT FAMILY Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 95-100
An amazing barrel sample. Rich and plush, with a concentrated mix of ripe plum, blackberry and wild berry flavors that are tightly focused and persistent, with a long, detailed finish. Caressing texture. —J.L.
HUNDRED ACRE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley The ARK Vineyard 2005 95-100
Has all the ingredients for greatness. Dense and massive, with rich, opulent, structured layers of mocha, blackberry, black currant and plum; the flavors run deep and gain momentum on the finish. —J.L.
PAHLMEYER Napa Valley 2005 95-100
A star in this group. Plush, rich and enormously concentrated, powerful yet polished, with vivid, focused currant, blackberry and wild berry fruit that is deep and saturated, with a long, intense finish. —J.L.
BERINGER Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Steinhauer Ranch 2005 92-94
The tannins on the finish have a stern attitude, but there’s much to admire in this rich, concentrated youngster. Firm, with a chewy core of spicy currant, earth, truffle and cedar. —J.L.
CALDWELL Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Massive. Dark, rich and plush, with mouthcoating anise, red currant and black cherry fruit that is intense and concentrated. Finishes with a long, deep aftertaste that reverberates with flavor. Tannins are thick yet ripe. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. —J.L.
FISHER Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Aromas of herb, sage and red currant are taut and tightly focused. Compact and concentrated, the wine offers hints of toffee and cedar, but on the finish the red currant fruit returns to center stage. —J.L.
GEMSTONE Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville 2005 92-94
Superrich and stylish, with tiers of black cherry, plum and boysenberry, giving this wine an almost syrupy texture. Plush and concentrated, the flavors coat the palate. —J.L.
GROTH Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Reserve 2005 92-94
Elegantly balanced, supple and harmonious, with lots of spice, chicory, currant, black cherry and fancy toasty oak nuances. Finishes with a rich, complex aftertaste. —J.L.
PAUL HOBBS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Great intensity, focus and harmony of flavors, with richly layered currant, blackberry and wild berry fruit that is vivid and sharply defined. Finishes with bold, plush tannins. —J.L.
HUNDRED ACRE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Kayli Morgan Vineyard 2005 92-94
Sleek, with firm, ripe, well-defined black cherry, currant, earth, mineral and a hint of graphite. Tightens up on the finish, with gritty tannins, but nothing out of line for a barrel sample. —J.L.
JERICHO CANYON Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Jericho Canyon Vineyard 2005 92-94
Firm and chewy, with dense currant, earth, anise, herb and mocha-laced oak. On the finish, the tannins clamp down, yet the flavors push through. —J.L.
CLIFF LEDE Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2005 92-94
Great structure, density, concentration, focus and range of flavors; clearly one of the best wines of the tasting. Packed with firm, rich, vivid currant, fresh earth and blackberry flavors that are intense and persistent, and ending with rich, integrated tannins. —J.L.
LEWIS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Firm, intense and densely concentrated, with a rich, compact core of spicy currant, earth, ginger and anise flavors. This massive youngster has all the ingredients for greatness. —J.L.
MARSTON Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District 2005 92-94
Intense and concentrated, with a rustic edge to the cherry, currant, anise, mineral, sage and herbal notes. Shows a dash of cedary oak, too, and the tannins are mouthcoating. —J.L.
PALMAZ Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Rich and concentrated, with earthy currant, herb, wild berry, mocha and chicory flavors that are intense and persistent. Excellent acidity and firm tannins give this wine fine structure. —J.L.
RAMEY Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Pedregal Vineyard 2005 92-94
Dark, firm, intense and concentrated, this is a massive young wine, with tiers of rich earthy currant, anise, sage, cedar and herbal flavors, plus hints of mocha and tobacco. Finishes with a full-throttle burst of flavor and mouthcoating tannins. —J.L.
REALM Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Dr. Crane Vineyard 2005 92-94
Dark-hued, plush and concentrated, this wine exhibits saturated black cherry, wild berry, plum and cassis flavors that coat that palate, finishing with a long, intense and penetrating aftertaste. —J.L.
SCHRADER Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard 2005 92-94
Charming for its seductive aromas of ripe Cabernet and pretty oak, this wine is smooth and seamless on the palate, with vivid dusty berry, plum and wild berry fruit. —J.L.
SHAFER Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District Hillside Select 2005 92-94
Thick and racy, with zesty wild berry, blackberry and boysenberry fruit that’s ripe and well-structured, with firm tannins and a long, intense aftertaste that keeps the emphasis on the fruit. —J.L.
SNOWDEN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Superrich, plush and extracted, this is an amazingly complex and concentrated young wine, with tiers of red currant, black cherry, blackberry, anise, mineral and sage. Finishes with a long, rich and supple aftertaste that makes it close to classic. —J.L.
SPOTTSWOODE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Chewy and rustic, with plenty of smoky oak, pencil lead, graphite evident in the aroma. The currant, mineral, sage and cedary notes are tight and concentrated, firming up on the finish where the tannins are more evident. —J.L.
STAGLIN Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2005 92-94
Pushing a classic rating. Very rich and concentrated, with plush currant, earth, mineral, sage and cedary pencil lead flavors that turn tight and firm on the palate, ending with a long, vibrant finish. —J.L.
TOR Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville To-Kalon Clone No. 6 2005 92-94
Ripe and plump, with fleshy, concentrated plum, blackberry and wild berry fruit that’s fleshy. The tannins are ripe and firm, with the fruit pushing through on the finish. —J.L.
VIADER Napa Valley 2005 92-94
Firm and concentrated, with spice, anise, currant, herb and cedary flavors that are well-proportioned, tightly focused and rich and persistent on the finish. —J.L.
BEAULIEU VINEYARD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Georges de Latour Private Reserve 2005 89-91
Rich and focused, with intense, concentrated currant, blackberry and wild berry fruit that’s vivid and complex. Finishes with a tight, persistent aftertaste. —J.L.
CAYMUS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection 2005 89-91
Intense and concentrated, with vivid plum, blackberry, mineral and fresh earth scents. On the finish, the tannins gang-tackle the palate. —J.L.
DIAMOND CREEK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Volcanic Hill 2005 89-91
Compact and grapey, with ripe plum and dense blackberry and wild flavors that are tight and tannic, finishing with a rustic aftertaste. —J.L.
DUCKHORN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 89-91
Grapey and backward, with intense red plum and wild berry fruit that is youthful and simple; a barrel sample that needs time. —J.L.
EPONYMOUS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 89-91
Clean, ripe, pure black cherry and red currant flavors are elegant and stylish, with a burst of tart berry fruit and firm tannins evident on the finish. —J.L.
ETUDE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 89-91
Intense and vibrant yet elegant and stylish, with vivid blackberry, wild berry and red currant fruit that’s focused and balanced, ending with ripe, crisp tannins. —J.L.
HARTWELL Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2005 89-91
A firm, tasty mix of red currant and blackberry fruit that’s intense and concentrated. At times it shows a supple texture, and then the tannins grab hold. —J.L.
HEWITT Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2005 89-91
Intense and concentrated, with rich layers of black cherry and red currant fruit that’s well-defined. Turns lean on the finish, but the flavors are persistent and linger. —J.L.
JANZEN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2005 89-91
Well-focused, with red currant, black cherry, plum and blackberry fruit that’s rich and well-defined, finishing with a long, intense and persistent finish. —J.L.
ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 2005 89-91
Intense, with concentrated spice, anise and red currant fruit that’s vibrant, showing a nice red- and black-licorice edge, turning leaner and trimmer on the finish. —J.L.
OPUS ONE Napa Valley 2005 89-91
A big, ripe, fruity yet elegant wine that offers layers of red currant, black cherry, plum and wild berry, turning sleek and spicy and finishing with fine-grain tannins. —J.L.
JOSEPH PHELPS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 89-91
Sleek, with ripe, vivid black cherry, black currant and raspberry flavors and a hint of mocha. Tannins are ripe and fine-grained. —J.L.
RUBICON ESTATE Rutherford 2005 89-91
Showy in its display of lavish oak, with mocha, dill and espresso bean, but it has the rich, loamy currant and berry fruit to stand up to that, with hints of anise and sage. Finishes with ripe, integrated tannins and fine balance. —J.L.
RUDD Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2005 89-91
This wine features a complex mix of ripe currant, black cherry and plum fruit with a spicy cedar and smoky oak overlay. Ends with crisp acidity and tannins. —J.L.
STERLING Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 2005 89-91
The aromas jump out of the glass, with vivid berry, plum and pomegranate flavors that are intense, if on the tart side. Chewy tannins are evident on the finish and it’s a bit simple at midpalate. —J.L.
TURNBULL Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005 89-91
Tightly wound, with a firm, tannic core of red currant, anise, mineral and earthy flavors that are focused and concentrated, yet very much tasting like a barrel sample. —J.L.
WHITEHALL LANE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve 2005 89-91
Very reduced, but with a little aeration the currant, wild berry and black cherry fruit comes through. Needs a little polish, but the raw materials are there. —J.L.
ANDREW GEOFFREY Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District 2005 85-88
A racy sample, firm, intense and concentrated, with vivid sweet-sour blackberry and wild berry flavors that have a twinge of balsamic. Chewy tannins. —J.L.
DAVID ARTHUR Elevation 1147 Napa Valley 2005 85-88
Shows grapey currant, red plum and earthy scents that come across as a bit flat from this bottle. —J.L.
BARNETT Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District 2005 85-88
Tightly wound, with a firm band of herb, cedar and tart red currant and blackberry fruit. Flexes its tannic strength on the finish. —J.L.
LADERA Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2005 85-88
Dense and earthy, with a rustic personality, this displays a strong herbal edge to the currant, mineral, sage and cedary notes. —J.L.
RIDGE Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains 2005 85-88
There’s a touch of greenness in this wine, not surprising given its cool-climate source, with herb, cedar and tart currant the prevalent flavors. Tannins grab hold on the finish. —J.L.
SBRAGIA FAMILY Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Wall Vineyard 2005 85-88
This wine offers a racy berry mix, with blueberry, raspberry and hints of herb and mint that thin out on the finish. —J.L.
ST. CLEMENT Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Progeny Vineyard 2005 85-88
Supple plum and wild berry flavors are smooth and polished, but come up shy on extra facts of richness and complexity. —J.L.
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