Het jaar 2003 was erg heet voor Spanje. Dat maakte de oogst een uitdaging voor alle wijnmakers. Te hoge suikerniveaus en dus te veel alcohol.
Wie daar mee om kon gaan had een hit. En vooral in de Ribera del Duero is dat in 2003 goed gelukt.
Een verslag van de Wine Spectator.
Tasting Highlights: Spain
The hot 2003 vintage produces rich reds with power and grace
The 2003 growing season in Spain, as in much of Europe, was blazing hot. Temperatures in some regions exceeded 100° F in late July and the first half of August. While sugar levels soared, winemakers had to work hard to retain acidity in their grapes. Those who succeeded produced wines of great natural power, yet excellent balance as well, with fresh fruit and lively acidity.
Ribera del Duero was particularly successful; its high elevation kept the nights cool and thus maintained good levels of acidity in the grapes. Garnacha-based reds also succeeded, as this grape tolerates heat well, yielding luscious, jammy flavors of raspberry and blackberry when fully ripe.
Here is a selection of outstanding 2003 Spanish reds from my recent blind tastings in our New York office.
Wine Score Price
BODEGAS LAN Rioja Edición Limitada 2003 94 $45
Powerful yet graceful, this rich, ripe red delivers blackberry and currant fruit framed by coffee and toasty oak notes. Though thick on the palate, it remains fresh and focused, and the finish is clean and sweet, with floral and mineral grace notes. Drink now through 2012. 1,500 cases made. —T.M.
PAGO DE LOS CAPELLANES Ribera del Duero Crianza 2003 93 $30
Deceptively modest, this red is harmonious, focused and deep, with plum, currant, mineral, chocolate and floral notes that pick up intensity as they roll across the palate. Not a blockbuster, but all the pieces are seamlessly in place. Drink now through 2015. 600 cases imported. —T.M.
VIÑAS DEL CENIT Viño de la Tierra de Zamora Cenit 2003 91 $46
This lush red delivers rich chocolate, currant and black cherry flavors, with notes of allspice and espresso. There’s enough acidity to keep it fresh, and the muscular tannins are well-integrated. Drink now through 2012. —T.M.
BODEGA EMINA Ribera del Duero Prestigio 2003 91 $26
This modern red is balanced and nicely focused, with ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit framed by well-integrated tannins and accented with just enough toasty oak. Floral and spicy notes linger on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 4,000 cases made. —T.M.
BODEGAS RENACIMIENTO DE OLIVARES Ribera del Duero Rento 2003 91 $60
This exuberant red shows blackberry and blueberry flavors accompanied by toasted almond and vanilla from oak. The tannins are well-integrated, the acidity lively. Sweet floral notes linger on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 2,000 cases made. —T.M.
BODEGAS SIERRA CANTABRIA Rioja Colección Privada 2003 91 $42
Alluring floral and black cherry aromas turn darker on the palate, showing notes of coffee, toast and grilled plums, supported by muscular tannins that finish clean, leaving a fresh, berry-scented finish. Best from 2008 through 2012. 250 cases imported. —T.M.
FINCA CAMPOS GÓTICOS Ribera del Duero 7 Lunas 2003 90 $55
This muscular red delivers plum, meat, licorice and mint flavors, with depth and balance. Good concentration, but needs time to unwind. Best after 2007. 200 cases imported. —T.M.
BODEGA NEKEAS Grenache Navarra Vega Sindoa El Chaparral Old Vines 2003 90 $11
This rich red delivers syrupy raspberry and blackberry flavors with accents of coffee and mineral, supported by firm tannins. It’s powerful and distinctive. This tastes of hot sun on stony soils. Drink now through 2009. 2,000 cases imported. —T.M.
Lees ook:Proefnotities: Priorat
Lees ook:Oogstbericht 2001: Barbaresco, geweldig!
Lees ook:Oogstbericht 2004: Chili, Pinot Noir en Syrah
Lees ook:Oogstbericht 2004: Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Lees ook:Oogstbericht 2004: Elzas