Er gaan veel geruchten onder de betere wijnhuizen dat men wijnen maakt die in de persoonlijke smaak liggen van Robert Parker, of de lokale proefmeester voor Wine Spectator.
Want, als je hoge punten van hun krijgt, kan je voor een hoge prijs je wijn verkopen.
Tja, zo werkt het inderdaad volgens mij.
Natuurlijk zijn er eigenwijze en trotse wijnmakers die alleen maar doen wat ze zelf willen, maar ik ben er heilig van overtuigd dat veel grote wijnhuizen erop letten wat RP of WS lekker vinden en daar hun wijnen op aanpassen!!!
Natuurlijk vinden Robert Parker en de Wine Spectator dat niet. Zij vinden zichzelf erg onpartijdig en kundig… Zijn ze ook wel natuurlijk. James Molesworth van Wine Spectator heeft er een heel artikel op zijn blog aan gewijd zelfs…
Making Wines to Please Critics
Let’s set the record straight – at least, my record – on this whole ‘wineries making wines in a style to please critics’ argument that’s raging right now in my colleague James Laube’s blog.
The argument is born out of a feeling that the current crop of American wine critics are so powerful a force, that our own personal preferences become dictatorial to those who read us. That seems like a sad comment to make.
When I taste a wine for review here at the magazine, I judge it based on its inherent quality – my personal style preference is not the issue. There are oaked Chardonnays and unoaked Chardonnays. And there are good oaked Chardonnays and bad ones, along with good unoaked Chardonnays and bad ones. Neither ‘style’ is inherently better than the other – it’s the purity of fruit, balance, structure and other components that dictate the wine’s quality.
As a wine drinker, I may personally prefer one style to another, but as a critic, I am also obligated to understand and appreciate the other styles, and to be able to judge them all accordingly. I have to subjugate my personal taste – my cellar is full of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but I know that the wines aren’t for everyone – in order to take a clear, clinical look at every wine that winds up in my tasting glass.
If I really only liked one style of wine and wanted to dictate that to my readers, then that would be all I would ever write about. Instead I find myself writing about bone-dry, minerally Savennières as often as fruit-driven Argentinean Malbecs. The readers then make their choice about what I’ve had to say (which includes the choice to not listen to me at all).
To like only one style while being blind to or even ignoring all others is to miss the point of wine – which is an expression of place (terroir), time (the harvest) and personality (the winemaker). Those three things provide for a limitless diversity, and that’s why so many different people love so many different kinds of wine. No dictator can change that.
Bron: Wine Spectator
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