Temperaturen stijgen overal. Dat geeft meer suiker en alcohol in de wijn. Vooral rode wijn, Pinot Noir, Cabernet. Het wordt bijna port. En dat vinden veel mensen in een rode wijn niet lekker. Zoet gaat niet goed met eten. Tenzij het perfekt uitgebalanseert is met de zuurtegraad.
Daarover dit mooie artikel van Eric Asimov.
This article is about the rising sensation of sweetness that I experience in California wines, particularly red wines, and most notably pinot noirs, cabernets and zinfandels. I want to follow up here because, as usual, I cannot bear to confine myself to the mere 1,100 words or so I am permitted in the newspaper.
If you like wine with dinner, sweetness, or the perception of sweetness, is a problem. A sweet wine does not go well with food, unless it is well balanced by acidity, and these wines tend to be made in a soft, round, plush style that is low in acidity and high in pH.
I don’t want to get too technical, but pH is an important concept, measuring acidity and more in a reverse scale, that is, the lower the pH, the higher the acidity and vice versa. I dare not go further except to say that many of these wines that seem sweet are high in alcohol and high in pH, which means they have a flabbiness to them that does not enhance food. Beyond that, I will leave it with David Bird, who, in his book “Understanding Wine Technology: The Science of Wine Explained’’ (DBQA Publishing, 2005), writes: “For the no-scientist pH is a somewhat difficult concept to come to terms with, being an indication of acidity and yet not the same as total acidity and whose figures are the opposite way around.’’ You get the idea.
In any case, it all goes back to the prevailing stylistic argument about American red wines today. How do you feel about high-alcohol, soft, inky black wines with phenomenally complex fruit and oak flavors and little structure? Many Californians argue that nothing is wrong with high-alcohol wines so long as they are balanced. Nonsense. I like to drink wine with my meal, not sip it, and the more alcohol in the wine, the less I can drink. So even if a high-alcohol wine is not hot and heavy, it still poses a problem, which is only amplified by the impression of sweetness that it offers.
Dan Berger, a California writer who publishes Vintage Experiences, a weekly newsletter, argues cogently that many of these high-alcohol, sweet-tasting wines will not age well. That is the lesson he took from the 30th anniversary reenactment of the 1976 Paris tasting, in which he was one of the judges. In that seminal blind tasting in 1976, a handful of unheralded California wines were judged superior to some venerated French bottles. At this reenactment, young California cabernets were tasted along with young Bordeaux, although not in head-to-head competition. Still, Berger told me that the Bordeaux were much more structured than the soft, round California cabernets. “The message was that California had lost its way,’’ he said. “They were big, blousy and overblown, made for those people looking for instant gratification.
Of course, not everybody will agree with Berger. Robert M. Parker Jr., for one, asserts that these wines will age well. Parker himself has said that he wishes more California wines were made with reasonable levels of alcohol, but he does not seem to mind giving the highest ratings to wines at the top of the alcohol scale.
Not so long ago I had one of his 100-point wines, a 1997 Harlan Estate, that was incredibly rich and complex yet completely without structure. I found it difficult to enjoy with dinner. Maybe this was a “social wine,’’ as Justin Smith of Saxum Vineyards called big, sweet-tasting wines that are better consumed as cocktails than with food.
Once again I fear it appears that I am dumping on California wines. Untrue. I am dumping on this style of wine. I love many California reds. Here are a dozen that adhere to a more structured, restrained style: Ridge, Calera, Mount Eden, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Peay, Failla, Littorai, Radio Coteau, Philip Togni, Renaissance, Au Bon Climat and Rafanelli. There are many, many more.
Bron: Eric Asimov, The New York Times
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